1) I started off with some measurements of my doors and door jambs, then transferred these measurements to a 2D drawing. I added in the stock hinge location as a reference to how the door opened with original hinges.

2) I talked over the design with my friend who then made the hinges for me. These were made with some scrap bar stock, square and round tubing. Since these are built on the table each one is slightly different. The important part is to make sure the hinge pins are aligned when finished.

3) I started off with my lower hinge and cut an opening in my door jamb. The bottom of my hinge pocket will set on top of the lower brace from the cowl to door jamb. This was as low as I could go with my hinge. The body is pinching inwards at the bottom and I wanted to leave a small amount of clearance between the outer body sheetmetal and my hinge pin.

4) Problem, the jamb area had a flange on the inside near the outer sheetmetal. This flange ended up to be in the location of the hinge pin. I then had to go back in and trim this flange to get my pocket to fit. I also had to cut out several inches of the flange above the pocket so that the pins could be inserted and removed.

5) Once all the trimmed I had a nice fit for my hinge pocket. After the lower pocket fitted it was time to move up to the upper pocket. I wanted to space the hinges as far a part as I could but limitations only allow so much.

6) The flange on the door jamb created the same problem on the upper pocket as it did on the bottom. Once this was trimmed out the pocket was test fitted, or I tried to test fit it. The flange on the cowl side was causing a small problem so I needed to lower my opening a small amount.

7) Once I was satisfied with the fit of both pockets the distance between them was measured. I then removed the pockets and moved over to the work bench. A long pin was ran through both hinge pockets to align them, if this part is not done right the doors will never work properly. Then the hinges were spaced out to my previous measurement. A piece of angle stock was cut and welded to both hinges while they were clamped and aligned. The pockets were then slide back in place in the door jambs and tack welded in.

8) I put mockup doors in place and marked the location of the hinges arms on the door. This area was cut out and the door tack welded in place on the cab. In the upper hinge location you can see the front widow track. The track is welded in place and left alone. The hinge arm and mounting plate fit leaving me about a quarter inch clearance.

9) With the hinges in place and the door tacked to the body I took some scrap steel and welded in a backing structure so the door could be bolted to the hinge. Tested and opens nicely.

10) The junk door was then removed and finishing work started on the door jamb. Pockets are now fully welded in place with a little extra bracing done on the inside and gaps filled.

11) With the real door, the hinge arms must be removed. From inside the cab I marked the location of the upper and lower hinges onto the door. With the door removed from the cab these areas are cut out to make room for the new hinge pocket. I cut out some scrape sheetmetal and bent a recessed pocket to fill these areas. I made the pockets a little longer and deeper than needed so that I had room to play in my next step.

12) The main thing I needed to keep in mind all along was the "U" channel inside the door for the front edge of the window. The hinge arm, pocket and a tapped mounting plate needed to fit here without moving the channel. I then mounted my hinge arms back in the hinges, slide my new door pocket in place and refitting the door. I then marked the bolt holes from the arms onto the pockets and

 

removed the door again. The holes were then drilled out oversize to allow for some adjustment in the door. The pockets are again fitting in the door and the door realigned and clamped in place. I then slid my threaded mounting plate behind the pockets and ran the mounting bolts through the arm, pocket and into the mounting plate. I then tightened the bolts up to make sure the pocket was sandwiched between the arms and mounting plates. Once everything was fitted to my satisfaction the pockets were then spot welded into place and the door removed for final welding.

With everything welded in place the door was once again bolted in place. The door opens great, works smooth and opens close to 90 degrees to the cab. The hinge arms fit almost flush with inner door structure .